At Mimi’s Hummus 14th Street.
For six years, Mimi’s Hummus has been hiding out in Ditmas Park, quietly serving some of the city’s best hummus and shakshuka. This summer, owners Avi Shuker and Mimi Kitani will take a big leap across the East River and open two Manhattan outposts, one in UrbanSpace’s forthcoming Vanderbilt food hall near Grand Central and another solo restaurant on East 14th Street.
When your brunch requires some balking of tradition, Mimi’s Mediterranean flare strikes the perfect balance with both lemony hummus made from either chickpeas or fava beans for you, and Moroccan semolina pancakes for your less adventurous companion.
Amazing—some might say sad—the way today’s elite athletes are turning into food snobs. If you saw the so-called “Sports Sunday” section in the Times the other day, you know what we mean. On page one: an on-the-road piece about a chef for a Tour de France team from Colorado. Inside, an account of Los Angeles Angel Vladimir Guerrero’s mother, who, on game days, cooks Dominican for her son the gastronome and his fussy colleagues. And that’s not all: Another mouthwatering story, entitled “From Israel to the NBA, but Missing the Hummus,” told the tale of six-foot-nine, 225-pound Omri Casspi, the first Israeli to play in the NBA, who, although excited to join the Sacramento Kings, wondered whether moving to the United States would mean he might starve to death. “[Good] Hoom-us,” he said, when asked what he’d miss most about leaving Tel Aviv. “You don’t have that here.”
The newest of these hummusiot also happens to be the best.
Mimi’s Hummus opened in February on Cortelyou Road, the Restaurant Row of Ditmas Park.
The tiny square shopfront is sunny and airy, with only eight tables. Perforated wood planks, swooping up to the ceiling, are a clever update of Middle Eastern latticework. The owner, Mimi Kitani, is Israeli, but her mother grew up in Morocco and her father in the Kurdish region of Iraq. Culinary traces from each country surface in her well-edited selection of small plates.