Modern Middle Eastern restaurants are easy to find across New York City these days. But Mimi’s Hummus, which opened here in 2009 before spawning Manhattan outposts, remains one of the best. The hummus, capped with softened chickpeas, spiced, sautéed mushrooms, or a tomato-and-eggplant stew, is ethereally smooth and rich without any lingering heaviness. Other must-tries include the gently caramelized roasted cauliflower with garlicky tahini, and the Iraqi pita, called sabich in Israel, which jumbles fried eggplant, sliced boiled egg and potatoes, shredded cabbage, and dollops of smooth tahini and the tangy pickled mango sauce amba into an overflowing flatbread pocket. Brunch brings several delightful takes on shakshouka, including one that pairs the eggs poached in rich tomato stew with spicy lamb merguez sausage, and another that swaps the familiar tomato base for braised Swiss chard and sheep’s-milk feta.
